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Ace is Ace is Aces

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New York Times critic Sam Sifton reviews New York's Breslin restaurant, which is relevant not because of the chef--The Spotted Pig's April Broomfield--nor because of the "fried stuffed pig foot the size of a toddler's leg" (though, we dig), but because its location, the Ace Hotel, is connected to Portland through skeins of culture and aesthetic at once gossamer-thin and thick as Broomfield's pork belly. [The New York Times]

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