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Raj Sharma's British-home-cooking-influenced Indian restaurant Indish (on NW 21st) already takes a departure from the curry house mentality ("We don't actually know what the word 'curry' means," he claims); a new menu revealed earlier this week retools the spot's former "pick one from each column" small-plates concept into more set entrees, like cod bean roulade, aubergine badal jaam, and flame-grilled stuffed zucchini courgette. According to Raj's always-entertaining menus, the more-familiar samosa is out of the rotation: "When trying to innovate, something has to give — and you know how we feels about 'sacred cows.'"

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