Freelance writer and Reed professor Roger Porter, in the first big dining story to appear since Karen Brooks' untimely and utterly ludicrous last week departure, reviews downtown restaurant Gilt Club in today's Oregonian. Owned by regulation hottie Jamie Dunn, right, and cheffed by regulation rolling pin-wielding lunatic (need a reminder?) Chris Carriker, Gilt Club is known for serving actual food until late, and for its killer (good killer) industry discount. And, now, for its cocktail names--like Tracy's First Love and Tracy's First Heartbreak--and Carriker's charcuterie obsession--this is a cook who does not fear the pig ear--and its experimentations vis a vis panna cotta. Only notable downfall seems to be a "shortfall of intense flavorings," as Porter does not go as wild for the boar nuggets as Eater operatives have been known to do.
Stepping out for a second, and reviewing the review as this is what we do, it's a very very food review, but not so much the kind of restaurant review that people like, just to pick a name out of a hat, Brooks were known for. Not a lot of sense of the culture, of what Gilt Club means, of where it's been or where it's going. A whole lot of actually tremendously difficult food description (trust, it's impossible to figure out how to say "good-tasting" without using the d-word), but, well, it kinda just makes us want a Scooparina della Scoopo Special, real bad.
·The Gilt Club [Oregonian]
·Karen Brooks [EaterPDX]
·Hilarious--and Gratuitous--Glamour Shots [EaterPDX]