Patrick Alan Coleman makes sweet love to Genoa and Accanto head chef David Anderson this week, as the Mercury dedicates a full page to the adjoining Italian hotspots. In a comparison test, the neighborhood-casual Accanto fares slightly worse; mainly because Genoa's deemed a "culinary museum" where "curiosity [is] fulfilled in five courses." Meanwhile, (The Oregonian's David Sarasohn is equally enamored with Bruce Carey's Clarklewis, as Dolan Lane settles into his second year behind the menu:
After bumpy, first-date-like ups and downs — initial expectations imploding, an abrupt ending coming perilously close, intriguing L.A. figures dashing in and out — [Clarklewis] has ultimately become both dependable and inviting.
· Genoa [Official site]
· Accanto [Official site]
· Clarklewis [Official site]
· All previous Genoa coverage [Eater PDX]
· All previous Clarklewis coverage [Eater PDX]
Image of Clarklewis courtesy Clarklewis via Facebook