Welcome back to Chef in the Kitchen, a recurring Eater photo feature where we boldly go where few diners have gone before — into Portland restaurant kitchens — to get a sneak peek of the chef du jour hard at work.
[Photography by Dina Avila]
Normandy native Dominique Geulin, now the owner and head baker at the Francophilic St. Honore Bakery, resurrects (Halloween pun!) Eater's Chef in the Kitchen feature with an autumnally appropriate sweet treat — the mirliton de Rouen, an almond and pear tart from Normandy's city of Rouen. After mixing up a basic dough (flour, butter, sugar, eggs) and allowing it to rest overnight, Geulin poaches Barlett pears in a simple liquid of water, sugar, and vanilla beans. The finished dough gets a roll-out and is placed into line moulds along with the pears and a pouring of almond batter made from eggs, sugar, almond flour, almond extract, and poaching syrup. The surface is then sprinkled with sugar and rested to allow a film to form — according to Geulin, the sugar/rest process creates the mirliton's unique, crunchy top crust.
· St. Honore Bakery [Official site]
· All Previous Chefs in the Kitchen [Eater PDX]