Welcome back to Chef in the Kitchen, a recurring Eater photo feature where we boldly go where few diners have gone before — into Portland restaurant kitchens — to get a sneak peek of the chef du jour hard at work.
Gabe Rosen has what he affectionately calls a "kimchi cave." To make his take on kimchi, the Korean culinary staple, the Biwa chef/owner first chops up cabbage and daikon radish, salting those two ingredients and allowing them to sit for four hours. While waiting, other veggies — including mustard greens, green onions, jalepeno peppers, and anaheim peppers — get the chop treatment and are mixed with garlic, ginger, and lemon juice, before everything is added together and fermented in a roux of rice flour, water, sugar, and tons of Korean red chili flakes. The mixture heads into the "kimchi cave" for at least 10 days, fermenting at room temperature, before Rosen serves the goods alongside bowls of Biwa's famous ramen (try 'em deep-fried).
· Biwa [Official site]
· All Previous Chef in the Kitchens [Eater PDX]