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Critical Mass

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Recently ousted Oregonian critic Michael C. Zusman has found an outlet for the "ambivalent review" he believes was the reason behind his termination: WWeek has published the entire review "spiked by the Oregonian," and "ambivalent" would be an apt descriptor for Zusman's take on Southwest Portland's old-school Italian joint Gilda's. "Despite my inclination to anoint Gilda's as a worthwhile local family Italian favorite," he writes, "multiple visits verify that it rarely moves the dial beyond 'just OK.'" [WW]

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