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Critical Mass

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The first published review of Tony Demes' high-profile, haute NW spot Noisette emerged today in WWeek, and it's a downright rave: Writer Matthew Korfhage praises each French-modern dish as "simple yet complex at once," highlighting the possibility of the fine dining experience as an entertainment in itself: "The servers orient each beautifully plated dish to the diner with terrific precision, as if framing a portrait over a settee." The spot left such a deep impression that strangers' doggie bags are welcome: "If somehow there's something you don't like, take it home with you; give the paper your address and I'll pick it up." [WW]

Noisette Restaurant

1937 NW 23rd Place, Portland, OR 97210

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