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Critical Mass

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Brand-spankin' new Portland Mercury food critic Chris Onstad makes his print debut in this week's issue with an interesting first choice: SE Foster's Filipino spot Tambayan. Onstad orders off the offal-heavy menu with "no care for stateside comfort zones" and emerges with an appreciation for eating low on the hog — with the exception of a shrimp paste condiment called bagoong, which tastes "not unlike an explosive mouthful of angry poultry feces." [Mercury]

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