Inside Daniel Mondok's Wine Country Spot Paulée

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[Avila, 5/23/12]

And now, Eater takes a road trip to wine country for an inside look at chef Daniel Mondok's ambitious Dundee restaurant Paulée. As previously reported, Mondok (best known for his stints at Sel Gris and Genoa) and partner/master sommelier Brandon Tebbe have constructed a two-room, 90-seat restaurant at the Willamette Valley's Inn at Red Hills, with a concept that's truly farm-to-table. The menu's produce, herbs, and eggs are sourced from the restaurant's adjacent one-acre garden (overseen by farm manager Melody McClary), while proteins are sourced from farms and ranches literally within walking distance from the restaurant.

Paulée's two dining areas — one, a full dining room featuring a glass-enclosed wine cellar and chef's counter; the other a casual bar and lounge — share a 16-item "Raw" menu (download the entire thing in .pdf form here) that equally highlights seafood and vegetables. (Halibut tartare is served with black truffle, sorrel purée, and quail yolk; water buffalo carpaccio with pinenut and spruce gremolata; and a vegetarian-friendly dish of porcini shavings features sylvetta arugula, grana pandano, and hazelnuts). In addition to a selection of warm appetizers like sweetbreads and octopus cocktails, the main dining room menu features three major sections, divided into Pasta, Meat, and Seafood selections at a set price point ($15, $26, and $23, respectively). Asian influences come to the surface in dishes like peppercorn-crusted duck (served with rice and baby bok choi in a smoked black tea jus); a traditional Spanish technique (grilling fish "a la plancha") emerges in two "fusion" dishes (one, with striped bass, is served with Manhattan clam and mussel chowder).

And as to be expected of a wine country spot, Paulée's wine menu, curated by Tebbe, will feature 66 wines by the glass (including a dozen local wines on-tap). Twelve kinds of draft beer, sake, and a full cocktail list will also be featured.

Paulée plans to swing its doors open on Wednesday, May 30, with dinner hours from 4:30-9:30pm, Wednesday through Monday.
· Paulée [Official site]
· All Previous Paulée Coverage [Eater PDX]