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Critical Mass

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Earlier this year, E. Burnside Italian spot Luce was surprisingly named Bon Appetit's fourth-Best New Restaurant in the country, and the O's Michael Russell returns for a second look "to see if I'd been blind to Luce." The takeaway comes courtesy visiting NYC chef Gabrielle Hamilton: "[Chef] John [Taboada] is practicing an incredible restraint that almost no one holds themselves to any more. This idea now that just because you can, you should — people are just doing really stupid things to food." [OregonLive]