And now, welcome back Eater's long-lost review round-up Week in Reviews.
Image of Metrovino courtesy Avila/EPDX
The Oregonian's David Sarasohn loves a good ecological habitat metaphor, which he employs with gusto in a B+ review of the Pearl's revamped Metrovino. With chef Dustin See settling into the kitchen, Sarasohn praises the "pungent, intricate dishes designed to delve into wine" — wagyu carpaccio, offerings on the charcuterie board — as well as the more "unexpected" offerings. "Grilled leg of lamb, in many cases simply a protein promontory, here follows the trail of the steelhead into a friendly liquid ambience." (He's really, really into that steelhead served in bonito broth.) [OregonLive]
Meanwhile, at WWeek, the delightfully more downmarket Trigger (aka Bunk Sandwiches' Tex-Mex spot) escapes with a mixed review: high marks for a smoked pork shoulder quesadilla and fish tacos, the opposite for consistency and a hot-dog-stuffed taco. "You bite into a taco only to discover you are eating a hot dog instead. What a strange and awful world." Also: sizzling fajita debate in the comments! [WW]
At the Mercury, Chris Onstad discovers NE Alberta's neighborhood spot Cafe Hibiscus — quite literally, writing "I never saw it until last month, despite living in the neighborhood for three years." His experience sounds solid from start to finish, complete with an appreciation for free hot bread (that elicits a response worthy of "Andy Rooney's hack brother"), goulash, bratwurst, and entrees that "seem delicate despite their ample portions." [Mercury]