Image of Slide Inn courtesy Avila/EPDX
Is the Oregonian becoming a stricter headmaster? Fresh off Michael Russell's "D" grade for Southland Whiskey Kitchen, David Sarasohn bestows a middling grade upon SE Ankeny's Slide Inn: the restaurant's recent Germanic revamp nets a "C+". The assessment starts with a (dare we say?) snarky lede:
"Finally, Portland has filled a glaring gap in its restaurant offerings. At last we have a hipster cocktail bar featuring German food with vegan options."
Though the menu ultimately proves "inconsistent," schnitznel, prosciutto-wrapped chicken breast, and Hungarian sausage emerge as the tastiest bites. Cheese-laden dishes suffer from unfortunate clumpage: "lack of a heat source under the [fondue] pot caused the cheese element — a mild, not-that-interesting cheddar — to congeal quickly. Sauteed spaetzle with Swiss and speck needs to be consumed quickly before it, too, clumps." Desserts, meanwhile, run the gamut from "interesting" to "unusual." [OregonLive]
Meanwhile, Portland Monthly's restaurant section now features the taste buds of former WWeek arts and culture editor Kelly Clarke, who files on four restaurants inside microrestaurant complex the Ocean. Each spot comes with its highlights: Slowburger's "genuinely great" veggie burger, 24th & Meatballs' Italian spicy balls, and pretty much everything at Basa Basa and Uno Mas (at the latter, get the octopus, barbacoa, and prawns). The only true complaint: the ball puns at 24th & Meatballs, where "the gluten-free chicken balls are rubbery and sad." [Portland Monthly]
Eat Beat's Ben Tepler files his "First Impressions" on downtown's Raven & Rose, reserving his raves for the rabbit, calling the "Rabbit Two Ways" the "standout plate." Less thrilling, however, is the room: "Stadium lighting lines the white ceiling... while a long chef's counter overflows with a fluorescent wash. Despite the ample 80-seat capacity, tables are jammed up against each other, and with a full house, the din is deafening." [Eat Beat]
Finally, WWeek breaks down what Martin Cizmar calls a "game-changing" expansion of pie shop Lauretta Jean's. "Baker Kate McMillen is a queen of crust, and whatever she puts in her pies seems to work. Fillings change daily, but you're safe picking your favorite flavor and waiting for the wow." [WW]
· All Previous Week in Reviews [Eater PDX]