Photo of Ahi courtesy Avila/EPDX
Let's get the bad news out of the way first: The Oregonian's Michael Russell slams SE Clinton's two-month-old Ahi Sushi & Tapas, bestowing a rare "D" grade (the lowest since Southland Whiskey Kitchen also earned the near-failing grade earlier this year). In a three-paragraph takedown, Russell reports "pulling bits of bone" out of a special roll; that fatty tuna arrives with "a fatcap thicker than a poorly trimmed steak"; and that "handmade gyoza were an argument for store-bought" (ouch). Ultimately: "Ahi offers the kind of Japanese menu you might only be happy to find at the Des Moines airport."
Compare that to the article's other half, dedicated to Beaumont's Daruma Sushi, which fares much better with a "B" grade. Though service can sometimes lag, Russell writes that "the seafood here is fresh and clean, the flavors subtle, the nigiri and sashimi generally better than the rolls and the specials best of all." Chef Yuki Yamada offers fish that's "tenderly sliced," though Russell is partial to the amberjack, artic char, or Spanish mackerel (the latter of which boasting "a tiny sliver of silver skin still attached, like a couture handbag logo.") Pro-tip: Show up after 9p.m., when the menu transitions into omakase-only. [OregonLive]
The Mercury's Chris Onstad finds an "impressive restaurant" inside Woodlawn's neighborhood spot P's & Q's Market, a combination corner store and casual dining spot. During lunch and dinner, chef/co-owner Paul Davis serves up "well-composed plates": a "bright, cleanly flavored" roast beef sandwich, a "rich but clean-eating" breakfast sandwich, and a brunch-time bacon and brisket hash with kale, sweet potato, and apple. A roast chicken "would be precisely at home along the Seine," while housemade bratwurst is "remarkably smooth." The restaurant takeaway: "It's a nice place for a meal, a mid-day coffee, or simply a pint and some decent people watching along Dekum." [Mercury]
· All Previous Weeks in Review [Eater PDX]