And now, a look around the dining room of chef Eric Bechard's meaty return to Portland. (Since 2009, the former Alberta Street Oyster Bar chef has been operating his award-winning restaurant Thistle in McMinnville.) But the diminutive 20-seat Kingdoom of Roosevelt, which debuted last week, takes over the former Lyrik Cafe space, replacing the airy coffehouse with a low-light, dark-wood dining space complete with masculine touches like wall-mounted antlers, tall wood booths, and an antler chandelier.
Much has already been made of Bechard's gamey menu, which is separated into five sections: "Raw and Cured," "Eggs in Various Forms," "Fruits of the Forest and Field," "On the Bone," and "Finish." As previously reported, dishes speak to the adventurous (even the bread plate is described as "Bread and Fat"). The raw/cured section features items like fallow deer heart tartare (paired with "his marrow") and pickled elk tongue with berries; eggs' "various forms" include poached, in custard, and fried, with options like a soft-cooked egg served with smoked steelhead roe. The "Fruits of the Forest" section is a vegetarian respite (order up acorn dumplings or winter squash served with emmer wheat and apple), while "on the bone" delivers meaty entrees like roasted rabbit and hunter's stew.
A half-dozen wines are available by the glass, with 25 additional by-the-bottle options. Beer and ciders are offered by-the-bottle. And though all items are available a la carte, diners can commit to a six-course tasting menu for $60.
Kingdom of Roosevelt is open now. Hours of operation: 5:30pm. to 10p.m., Tuesday through Saturday.
· Kingdom of Roosevelt [Official site]
· All Previous Eric Bechard Coverage [Eater PDX]