As part of Eater's Burger Week, chefs at five Portland restaurants that are a tad burger-phobic agreed to make a special Eater Burger that will be available on their menus all this week. Every day, we've been highlighting a new off-the-menu creation, and next up: chef Tony Demes at Noisette.
For Eater Burger Week, chef Tony Demes of Noisette decided to step out of his comfort zone of French-inspired small plates and make the mother of all burgers: the "Foiegyu," Wagyu beef topped with a generous slab of seared Hudson Valley foie gras. And yes, Demes is aware of the burger's decadent ingredients: "It's a lot of fatty food!"
Picture wrapping your mouth around this: house-made brioche bun, buttered and crisped on the grill, a third of a pound of perfectly marbled Australian Wagyu beef grilled for a mere five minutes, topped with a fat two-ounce slab of scored and seared foie. Demes pairs the burger with pickled farmer's market veggies and Croquette de Pomme de Terre Dauphine — it's a recipe pulled out of Demes's 1987 edition of Escoffier, involving potatoes, pâte à choux (butter, eggs, flour, and water = buttery, pastry goodness) dipped in egg wash, rolled in bread crumbs, and deep fried in rice bran oil. Add a touch scratch aioli, for the dippers out there, and you've got yourself decadence Noisette-style. It may cost $60, but expect to be full for a week.
· Noisette [Official site]
· All Previous Noisette Coverage [Eater PDX]
— Dina Avila