There's a specific humor in naming a new bar Church — as in, "time to go to Church" — and this two-week-old spot on NE Sandy Boulevard commits to the theme (its motto: "Eat. Drink. Repent.)." The bar's photo booth sits behind a curtain to mimic a "confessional," WWII ship horns are "reborn" as overhead light fixtures, and cocktails come with names like "Hang Your Cross" (Bulleit Rye, Fernet, Angostura, Ferrand Dry Orange Curaca) and "Old World Prayer" (Monopolowa, green chartreuse, pear juice, lemon, green tea syrup, and juniper). Chef Chris Cook, an alum of the Woodsman Tavern, serves a menu of small and large plates like a chicken gizzard salad and biscuits-and-gravy. Oysters arrive, appropriately, on different kinds of angel-ed and deviled horseback — including a secular "Hipsters on Horseback" option with sweet beer glaze, green tomato, and pancetta.
Church is open now. Hours of operation: 4p.m. to 2a.m., daily.
· Church [Official site]