Modern Man's Train-Themed Speakeasy, Now Boarding

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[Avila/EPDX]

Famously old-school barbershop the Modern Man pours gentlemen a stiff drink with every grooming visit, and now, its N. Mississippi location adds a speakeasy and faux train journey to the mix. The Modern Man restaurant — down a hidden flight of stairs — is designed to mimic an old train car, complete with streaming footage of scenery passing by. Dining tables are tucked behind curtains, evoking lush sleeper bunks; vintage lanterns hang from the ceiling; and the bar itself features a smoking steam pipe in the center, like a train engine.
And the "journey" theme continues with food and beverage service. Although daytime hours will see the spot operating like an ordinary restaurant, according to owner Chris Espinoza, evening service will be available in three seatings — at 8p.m., 10p.m., and midnight — with 30 spots available during each seating. Guests purchase a $5 "ticket" for boarding (which will be applied to their tab), and food will be served dim-sum style, with a service cart stopping by each table: Expect small plates like Dungeness crab cakes (served with heirloom tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, and sunny-side up egg), butternut squash ravioli, and cotija quesadillas with sriracha sour cream and roasted green salsa. Unsurprisingly, the bar focuses on classic cocktails; at the end of each two-hour seating will be a last call of sorts, "and we will rotate in the next 30 'passengers' for the next "train,'" Espinoza says.

The Modern Man restaurant celebrates its grand opening on Sunday, September 8. Hours of operation: noon to 2a.m.; ticketed service begins at 8p.m.
· The Modern Man [Official site]