It's Saturday night in a city obsessed with all things buzzy and new, but Portland's oldest restaurant is still packing them in. Every bar stool is taken, every table is occupied, and there's a line stretching down the hall. Why? Because Huber's Cafe has flair. The space has that steeped-in-history feeling you usually only get on the East Coast -- mahogany bar, elegant archways, and glowing stained glass skylights in the ceiling. And when you order one of its famous flaming Spanish coffees, you get that delightfully showy tableside service you just don't see anymore.
The bartenders are old-school in the best way, pouring from on high with the showmanship of yore, handling the flaming glasses -- sometimes three or four at a time -- with the assuredness of the highly skilled.
Every few minutes another glass is set alight, the blue flames jetting out like a torch. And everyone turns to watch because the show never gets old.
