Photo of Trifecta Tavern courtesy Avila/EPDX
In his first-ever restaurant review complete with a star rating system, the Oregonian's Michael Russell bestows two sparklers upon Ken Forkish's "baker's restaurant" Trifecta Tavern. Russell traces the evolution of its menu, which focuses on shellfish and other dishes borrowed from Forkish's childhood: Early favorites include the "first-rate" ham and oyster plate, a "piquant" seafood stew, and a "buttery" steak that "was savory enough to make a wolf of Wall Street drool." Cocktails are described as "top-shelf," but the most consistent praise is found in the final paragraph describing desserts: Eve Kuttemann's menu is "comforting yet sophisticated, composed without seeming overwrought."
The two-star rating equates to a "good", and in case the accompanying text reads slightly better than good, Russell explains elsewhere that "my intention is for our two-star rating to be a high mark." Ultimately: "Trifecta has switched to a one-page menu that... does a better job explaining what the restaurant hopes to be — namely, a big, ambitious oyster and cocktail bar with a vast menu of American drinking fare." [OregonLive]
· All Previous Trifecta Coverage [Eater PDX]
· All Previous Weeks in Review [Eater PDX]