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Inside Reverend's BBQ, Sellwood's Hot New Smoke Shack

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[Avila, 4/2/14]

Here now, a look inside the neighborhood barbecue joint by the team behind game-changing steakhouse Laurelhurst Market: Reverend's BBQ opened earlier this week in Sellwood's former Eleni's Estiatorio space, serving what co-owners Ben Dyer, Jason Owens, and David Kreifels call an accessible, "family-friendly" menu of barbecue and all its familiar sides. Inside the 75-seat space, tables at dark-wood booths and two-tops alike are topped with whole rolls of paper towels and condiment caddies carrying four regionally based barbecue sauces: Two Ozark sauces, one "sweet" and the other spiced with ancho chile, and two Carolina versions, one a "gold" South Carolina-style with mustard, the other a North Carolina style with carmelized sugar, vinegar, and black pepper.

Reverend's dinner menu (downloadable in .pdf form) features all the barbecue classics, plus (as promised), fried chicken available by the pound. Meaty plates include two sides — choose from collard greens, mac-and-cheese, and barbecue beans, among others — and the traditional slices of white bread, upon request. The menu sprawls far beyond the meat and smoked ribs (which yes, arrive in a light coating of the sweet Ozark sauce): Appetizers include burnt-ends-topped deviled eggs and cold-smoked oyster shooters; there are four salad options; and a half-dozen sandwiches, from a fried chicken salad to the vegetarian barbecue tempeh.

And of course, there's a burger: According to Kreifels, the Reverend's house version features a meat blend featuring a one-to-five ratio of chopped up burnt brisket ends to ground beef, and the patty is topped with pimento cheese and fried onions to finish. To pair, the bar offers eight beers on tap (including Miller Lite, which comes with its own disclaimer "Who cares? It's been and it's refreshing"), plus six more by the bottle. Cocktail menu features a line-up of classics — Sazeracs, Moscow Mules, and Singapore Slings — plus four options on draft, including a margarita.

Reverend's BBQ is open now. Hours of operation: 4p.m. to 9p.m., Sunday through Thursday; 4p.m. to 10p.m., Friday and Saturday.
· Reverend's BBQ [Facebook]
· All Previous Reverend's Coverage [Eater PDX]
· All Previous Laurelhurst Market Coverage [Eater PDX]

Laurelhurst Market

3155 East Burnside Street, , OR 97214 (503) 206-3097 Visit Website

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