PORTLAND MONTHLY—For her latest hot take, PoMo's Karen Brooks travels to North Killingsworth's Hat Yai to try its fried chicken with its "lovely, subtle savor of fried shallots and whole coriander seeds punching through" the skin. The "lusty skirt steak skewer" with its "grassy funk and thrash of Thai spices" rivals those fried birds in taste, but she writes that the pickles "are skimpy, one-note affairs" adding that the sticky rice "is long past its bedtime." [Portland Monthly]
THE OREGONIAN—At The O, Samantha Bakall writes that Kayo, North Portland's newest ramen shop "won't vie for a place among the city's best," but she calls it a "good addition" to the area, thanks to its Sichuan MaLa bowl with its "decently chewy noodles" and "some of the best chashu we've found in the city." [The Oregonian]
PORTLAND MERCURY—In her most recent review, the Merc's Andrea Damewood says that while SuperBite can be spendy, "it's a luxury worth indulging in." While the "SpaghettiOs," with their Irish butter, parmigiano and truffles is a dish of "simple perfection," and the grilled, wine-glazed shiitakes (served with a "puff of miso-porcini marshmallow") impart "decadence and earthiness," the sweetbread bite is "uninspiring," courtesy of some bitter radicchio. But she writes that the entrée-sized seared lamb T-bone (with feta yogurt and deep-friend bread) might win you over the way it did her, as she calls it "a lady on the plate, but a freak in your mouth." [Portland Mercury]
WILLAMETTE WEEK—WWeek's Matthew Korfhage declares that the best sushi he's had all year is Fukami Sushiya's nodoguro, which came served as fleshy and as "fatty as any tuna," with a flavor that "blossomed over the course of the bite." And while the $65 and $85 multi-course tasting menus might sound like a lot of dough to fork over, the author writes that one of those courses comprises "a generous parade of nigiri...doled out singly fish by fish so it stretches out longer" than the many other courses.