Fine dining pop-up Holdfast Dining will serve its first dinner at its new permanent location Friday, June 22, about a month after opening its high-end bar next door, and the space remains true to its other homes. Centered around a chef’s counter, the new location attempts to take fine dining prix fixe into the realm of the casual and intimate. Owners Will Preisch and Joel Stocks announced plans to take over the Associated space soon after chef Nick Ford left the pizza-and-taco shop. Since they moved in, Holdfast and Deadshot have split the space into a casual, drop-in bar, and a private Holdfast dining space, seating eight three times each night, at 5:30, 7, and 8:30 p.m. “It makes it really dynamic,” Stocks says of the multiple seatings. “It starts very intimate, then the room fills up and there’s more bustle.”
While Deadshot and Holdfast share a kitchen, separation between the two businesses was key. Mark Annen took on the project, creating two individual aesthetics with a through-line of wood and neutral tones. However, the black, white, and grays of Deadshot are hard to find in its sophisticated sister: The color palate at Holdfast heavily relies on browns, from the chocolatey baseboards to the natural latte shades of the oak chef’s counter.
The counter was important to the team at Holdfast; Stocks sees it as crucial to the dining experience for his restaurant. “We want to be a place where you can have fine dining food and service, without having the pretentiousness some people turn away from,” Stocks said. “That’s why we push the counter — we want to be casual and talk to you like our friends.” Orange By Design custom-made the white oak centerpiece, with individual silverware drawers at each seat. The counter seats 16, a bump up from the 12 seats at its previous location, with an optional table for those looking for a more private dining experience.
The counter isn’t the only custom touch in the space: The walls are lined with hand-stamped images of sea vegetables, which Holdfast frequently forages for dinner. Local artist Daisy Dudley sketched the chosen sea beans and peas for the stamp.
Dinner remains $140, which includes gratuity and a beverage pairing, either alcoholic or non-alcoholic. Make a reservation through the restaurant’s website.
Correction: This story has been corrected to show the company Orange By Design crafted the countertop, not Orange Design.
• Holdfast Dining [Official]
• All Holdfast Dining coverage [EPDX]
• Cocktail Pop-Up Deadshot Will Start Slinging Drinks in Its Permanent Location Next Week [EPDX]
• Holdfast Dining and Deadshot take over Associated space [The Oregonian]