This St. Johns pizzeria has existed in a variety of forms — as a farmers market stand, a mobile food cart, a restaurant, a pop-up — but its latest version feels the most dialed in. In a sunny corner cafe, owner and pizzaiolo Craig Melillo makes Pacific Northwestern sourdough pizzas topped with green garlic, morels, boquerones, and whatever else Melillo feels inspired by any given week. But beyond the pizzas, the new Gracie’s has also reintroduced Melillo’s broader spectrum of dishes, including beautiful salads made with seasonal produce, petals of prosciutto punctuated with pickled cherries, and house-made ice cream in fun sundae preparations.

The Việt Kiều food cart Matta has existed in several forms over its years open, but now that Richard Le has left the cart behind in favor of a residency at Concordia’s Lil’ Dame space, the chef has leveled up without losing sight of its origins. Dishes from the cart’s original menu remain — thit kho falling apart in a caramel-y, soy-salty broth; mom’s shrimp omelet, the sweetness of coconut milk an undercurrent within the sheet of tomato-studded egg. However, other additions showcase Pacific Northwestern produce and seafood with a Vietnamese culinary palette. A highlight: slices of albacore and end-of-season watermelon sitting over half-moons of pickled daikon, heat and sesame permeating each bite.

Those who live on Portland’s east side have braved the Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway to reach this stellar taquito cart, but now, Tito’s has opened a restaurant in Swan Island, of all places. Anthony La Pietra’s crispy, potato-filled taquitos are as good as ever here, piled high with braised beef or citrusy pork; Tito’s tres leches, loaded with berries, is a worthy conclusion to any meal.

There’s a casual, cool shrug to this sparse combination taproom and restaurant in Kerns — the entire staff consists of its four owners, some of them taking orders while others tend to omelets or arrange conchas on plates. But as anyone who has visited Duality or Astral’s pop-ups knows, the food and beer here are some of the most exciting in town, despite the taproom’s laissez-faire trappings. Menus change often, and regularly incorporate seasonal produce; for instance, chef John Boisse’s pea tendril salads attain a light smokiness that doesn’t overpower the peas’ delicate sweetness, while a summery take on a “BLT” is more of a pork belly chicharrón ssam, with sungold tomato pico de gallo, salsa morita mayo, and little gems. But at brunch, the breakfast sandwich is the clear star, if available: A satisfyingly squishy, maple sugar-encrusted concha from pastry maven Lauren Breneman, filled with a soft omelet, green chorizo, and gooey quesillo with the browned lace of a sear.

At this breezy, open-air seafood bar, tucked behind food cart pod Lil’ America, couples share bottles of Muscadet while swiping radishes through seaweed butter and dunking juicy shrimp in Mama Lil’s cocktail sauce. The real draw here is Cache Cache’s lobster roll: Chef John Denison, the former chef de cuisine at St. Jack, hollows out a hunk of browned brioche and fills it with lobster meat coated in tarragon-scented aioli, with just a murmur of brown butter. The finishing touch is genius: a frosty layer of sweet cream buttermilk powder, giving the sandwich a touch of acidity without weighing down the fish.

Up a flight of stairs just a few blocks from Ladd’s Addition, L’Orange bathes in natural light as co-owner Jeff Vejr details the environmental context and history of each wine he pours. In the kitchen, chef Joel Stocks uses an impermanent cast of seasonal produce for elegant, focused dishes. Chilled melon soup, energized with lemon oil, spills over a pile of chopped Marcona almonds. Scattered Parisian gnocchi, almost custardy on the inside, sits over a corn pudding topped, cheekily, with popcorn. The menu will shift with the seasons, but the sense of uncomplicated deliciousness will likely remain constant.

Lightly crisp on the outside and chewy on the inside, Heyday’s wheat and rice flour doughnuts come in rotating flavors like baked ube and matcha strawberry. The former pop-up’s doughnut counter now resides within the CORE building, and with the increased kitchen capacity, baker Lisa Nguyen has branched out into other baked goods, such as brownies and banana bread. Morning pick-me-ups from Heyday aren’t complete without a pandan latte or other espresso drink, which uses beans from Portland Ca Phe.

Decades in the making, Mya Sandy Myint’s Southeast 82nd restaurant — well, stall within the CORE food hall — serves perhaps the city’s finest version of lahpet thoke, or tea leaf salad. The blue cheese funk of fermented and marinated tea leaves mingles with dried shrimp, fresh cabbage, and peanuts, adding dimension without distracting from the star of the dish. Other items on the menu are straight comfort food, executed with layers of flavor and nuance. The shop’s ohn no khao swè, Myanmar’s answer to Thai khao soi, is silky on the tongue with coconut milk and schmaltz, sweeter and richer than other versions in town. And Myint’s mohinga — a seafood noodle stew often considered Myanmar’s national dish — balances the sweetness of the shellfish in the broth with lemongrass, ginger, and allium.

This Sellwood-Moreland food cart specializes in the cuisine of the Kachin people of Northeastern Myanmar, using herbs like shalap leaf and culantro to make distinctive, complex braises, curries, and stir-fries. The Village Cooking is a particular standout, balancing an earthy foundation of turmeric, paprika, and Sichuan peppercorn with fresh herbs and bamboo shoots — a mound of coconut rice adds a lovely sweetness to the overall dish.