The secret has long since gotten out about XLB, creating mixed feelings among neighborhood regulars who have cherished its delicate soup dumplings and wide noodles since 2017. Chef and co-founder Jasper Shen, who tested a Chinese pop-up at the otherwise French-focused Aviary years earlier, keeps a similar pop-up-style focus at XLB with a concise menu of Chinese comfort food. Inside, the long dining room is adorned with white tile, mellow lanterns, and Chinese zodiac symbols; limited sidewalk patio seating is also available.

At Dos Hermanos, customers order through a sidewalk window as bakers diligently ply their doughs inside. Breads are the main attraction here — including baguettes, ryes, rosemary bread, and an unbeatable sourdough — but other baked goods, like flaky croissants, cookies, muffins, and scones, abound. There is no seating currently, but Dos Hermanos plans to open a coffee shop along with their new bakery on southeast Stark later this year.

Since opening in 2019, Jinju (“pearl” in Korean) has quickly become one of Portland’s most sought-after dessert destinations — as long weekday morning lines for its bonbons, gateaux, and pan au chocolat will confirm. Those looking for something savory can enjoy lunchtime bulgogi grain bowls and citrus chicken paninis at affordable price points. Jinju offers a few picnic benches outside, but expect to grab treats to-go.

Either/Or’s evening hours may be a thing of the past, but remote workers clocking out and transitioning from caffeine to alcohol need look no further than the intimate Box Social just across the street. Some of Portland’s top bartending talent mixes drinks from an inventive, rotating cocktail list here, with options like a frothy negroni fizz, the spicy “dirty little thief,” or your favorite off-menu classic. The wine list is a cut above many cocktail bars and the limited beer on tap includes a rotating sour.

North Portlanders long-accustomed to trekking miles south or east for banh mi can now beeline to Lua for stellar Vietnamese fare. Its banh mi sliders are an ideal size for lunch, but equally worth the walk are its rice noodle bowl entrees, topped with crispy proteins (including tofu), pickled vegetables, herbs, and plenty of fish sauce. For soup options, Lua currently offers a pumpkin shrimp soup and a vegan tofu and chive soup. In typical Williams fashion, the space is bright and modern with both indoor and outdoor seating.

A sensation from the moment it opened, this spot from Thai chef Akkapong Earl Ninsom, pitmaster Matt Vicedomini, and bar maven Eric Nelson seems firmly ensconced as one of those Portland restaurants that out-of-town friends always want to visit. Its combination of smoked meats with the electric flavors of Thai cooking is unmatchable — and a strong complement to its assortment of cocktails and mocktails. And while Eem’s curries might justifiably be its main draw, the spicy papaya salad is the foolproof way to start the meal. Waits can be long and reservations for groups under 10 are not accepted, but thankfully the packed Williams strip makes for convenient visits to nearby watering holes and shops while waiting for a table.

Fat Tuesday never ends at EAT, where Hoppin’ John, frog legs, and blackened catfish are served year-round amid green and purple beads strewn around the bar. Local oysters are available at market price — as low as $1 during happy hours — or served fried, baked, or in spicy oyster shooters. Wash down all the New Orleans fare with an impeccable Sazerac, a party-starting hurricane, or a $5 tap brew. The restaurant frequently hosts live music, DJs, and other special events.

North Portland gained a deli powerhouse with the recent — and somewhat reimagined — arrival of beloved deli Kenny & Zuke’s. The bagels are now courtesy of Portland bagel shop behemoth Henry Higgins, and the New York-style deli sandwich menu has been streamlined (the chopped liver is sadly departed). But the house-made pastrami lives on and remains worth the visit.

Life of Pie’s handsome wood-fired oven pumps out reliably excellent pizza, with the $8 margherita — served before 6 p.m. — as an especially enticing lunchtime draw. Indoor and patio dining are available, or grab a pie to go and match it with a thrilling beer a few doors down at AleFire.

Kulfi continues its breakaway success with this latest expansion to North Williams, bringing its namesake South Asian frozen dairy dessert to the neighborhood. The kulfi — first simmered and then frozen, making it less melty than ice cream — is offered on popsicle sticks in flavors ranging from rosewater and pistachio to combinations like spicy watermelon and jackfruit coconut lime. Nondairy, vegan versions are made with coconut condensed milk and coconut cream.

Celebrate the Hot Ones-inspired Scoville renaissance at Portland’s best (okay, yes, only) hot sauce shop that doubles as a carefully curated bar and bottle shop. Hot sauces here number in the hundreds of varieties — exact offerings depending on the supply from many of its boutique producers — and range from mild-and-sweet to smoky-and-piquant to for-masochists-only. AleFire takes its beer just as seriously, with 20 mostly-local brews on tap, alongside dozens of bottled and canned beers. The staff can offer sage hot sauce and beer pairing advice to those grabbing food along North Williams after their drop-in.