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Sushi bar at Kaizen Sushi.
Krista Garcia/Eater Portland

Where to Eat in Portland’s Old Town-Chinatown Neighborhood

Shaved ice, sushi, chop suey, and more

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Sushi bar at Kaizen Sushi.
| Krista Garcia/Eater Portland

While Old Town tends to get passed over for its glitzier neighbor, the Pearl District, there are a number of worthy places to dine — including options serving stellar sushi and old-school salisbury steak — in this area that’s still bouncing back from the pandemic.

Portland’s Old Town encompasses the city’s Chinatown, originally a Japantown; the neighborhood consists of a small concentration of restaurants and businesses marked by a decorative gate flanked by fu dogs on Burnside. Over the years, though, many of the Asian American-owned businesses have closed or moved eastward to the Jade District, attributing the flight to rising rents and a lack of city support for the neighborhood. Despite squandered redevelopment funds, local business owners — new and old — have put time, energy, and money into revitalizing the area, particularly with events.

Old Town is also home to Voodoo Doughnut and other restaurants more popular with out-of-towners than locals. See our visitor’s guide for more options, and for broader geographic choices, see the downtown map.

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Wilf's Restaurant & Jazz Bar at Union Station

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Wilf’s, at Union Station, is a jazz bar and restaurant that employs plenty of throwback flourishes. There aren’t many white tablecloth places left in Portland where diners can sit in crimson velvet wingback chairs and order old-school dishes like steak Diane and cherries jubilee prepared tableside over an open flame. For a more casual experience, try the lounge, where favorites like gooey cheese-topped French onion soup can be enjoyed with a glass of wine.

De Noche

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De Noche, one of the myriad restaurant concepts launched by República & Co., serves modern Mexican fare in the former La Fondita space. Expect beautifully plated renditions of classics like nopales salad, twists like the strawberry aguachile, and an ever-changing mole of the day. Visitors can dine al fresco on a patio along the north park blocks or at a rustic wooden table in the brick-walled dining room.

Lan Su Chinese Garden Teahouse

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With its serene atmosphere overlooking a courtyard, Lan Su Chinese Garden Tea House is an Old Town oasis. A ticket to the Chinese gardens is the price of entry and visitors can choose among herbal, oolong, and black teas (or even wine and sake) to accompany vegetarian light bites like dumplings, buns, and braised tofu, as well as mooncakes and almond cookies. It’s the ideal finish to an afternoon watching the garden’s koi.

John's Café

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While great, Fuller’s isn’t the only old-school diner in this Northwest quadrant. John’s Cafe has been there all along with its burgundy vinyl booths and padded counter stools, slinging economical breakfast specials and turning out BLTs and salisbury steak for lunch. The corner restaurant stops serving pancakes at 11 a.m., so diners whose tastes lean more sweet than savory should keep that in mind.

Republic Cafe and Ming Lounge

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Republic Cafe, which celebrated its 100th birthday in 2022, is one of the few operational vestiges of Portland’s Chinatown, decked out in murals and red-and-gold regalia. And there’s no better place to soak up some nostalgia and dig into Chinese American classics like chop suey and almond chicken than in a brown vinyl banquette (ignore the duct tape) bathed in red lights. Bonus: It’s open until midnight every day of the week, and often hosts cool under-the-radar concerts and DJs.

Kasbah Moroccan Cafe

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This tile-clad Moroccan cafe serves b’stilla, a traditional powder sugar-dusted pastry filled with chicken, as well as numerous tagines and Merguez lamb sausage made onsite. The sausage can be enjoyed in sandwich form, though the tagine with couscous and green olives is a lovely expression of the halal meat. There’s no going wrong by starting a meal with one of the earthy dips, accompanied by fluffy flatbread.

Old Town Pizza & Brewing

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Portland has become a pizza town over the years, but before locals were topping pies with burrata or nduja, Old Town Pizza was there with its house special pie — pepperoni, salami, Italian sausage mushroom, black olive, bell pepper. Nearly 50 years old, the two-story restaurant in a historic building has since expanded across the river and added a taproom, so diners can try a limited edition brew like a cucumber lager along with their barbecue chicken pizza. 

Goodies Snack Shop

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This new snack bar and market is, in many ways, a return to the building’s origins: Goodies Snack Shop sits in the space once home to Teikoku Co., a market in the heart of Portland’s Nihonmachi (Japantown). These days, it’s a fun spot to stock up on snacks, candies, and noodles ahead of a riverside picnic.

Green chairs line up at tables at Goodies, alongside snack shelves.
Goodies Snack Shop.
Dina Avila/Eater Portland

Barnes and Morgan

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This minimalist tea shop isn’t just stylish in its aesthetics — hiding in the back, owner Amir Morgan shows off his bespoke jumpsuits and vests in a showroom and studio, which customers peruse while he brews cups of jasmine and oolong in the front. If a tray of baklava is sitting by the counter, it’s best to order a slice with your tea.

A man pours tea into a glass cup at Barnes and Morgan in Portland, Oregon.
Barnes and Morgan.
Carla J. Peña/Eater Portland

Deadstock Coffee Roasters

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Local coffee shops have shaken off the outdated rigid stereotypes, which is exemplified in sneaker-themed Deadstock Coffee. The small storefront that also sells fun merch serves house roasts with names like Dark Jawn and Slow Jamz. Customers can order photo-worthy lattes adorned with a matcha powder Nike hightop or grab-and-go offerings like the LeBronald Palmer, a blend of coffee, lemonade, and sweet tea.

Sushi Ichiban

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Portland has a surprising number of kaiten a.k.a. conveyor belt sushi options, though Sushi Ichiban has the distinction of sending plates to diners on a miniature train that travels on a circular track around the counter. From vegan avocado and shiitake rolls to more elaborate spider rolls, most offerings top out at $5, so it’s not too costly to try things on a whim.

Lovely Rita

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Lovely Rita, the ground floor restaurant in the Hoxton, is worth a stop for a morning latte or an after-work martini, even if not staying at the hotel. Currently, the rambling space, lit by big picture windows, serves as a cafe during the day (laptops welcome) then turns more bar-like during the evening, with live music and small bites like charcuterie plates and panini. The hotel is also home to a sneaky speakeasy-like bar and a rooftop taqueria.

Kaizen Sushi pdx

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Helmed by chef and owner Job Martinez, who perfected his craft at notable sushi bars around the city, Kaizen is a notch above most neighborhood options. Take a seat inside the airy bilevel space — or at the counter — and try some of the traditional nigiri made from fish flown from Japan or sample one of the more creative rolls with names like Keep Portland Weird. Don’t miss one of dishes that bear the chef’s personal stamp, like the mixed seafood ceviche that uses heirloom tomatoes and jalapeño ponzu, garnished with cilantro.

Popular ramen chain Afuri is the place for a bowl of yuzu shio ramen, but don’t miss out on the dumplings and small plates like the soft shell crab bun, crisp karaage, and seasonal specials like a watermelon salad seasoned with shichimi pepper and nori. Pair the Japanese food with one of nuanced sakes from an extensive list — or even try a flight of two-ounce pours.

Meet Fresh Portland

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This Taiwanese import specializes in soupy desserts — served hot or cold — featuring purple rice, red beans, taro balls, and grass jelly. However, the real crowd pleaser might be the bao bing a.k.a. Taiwanese shaved ice. For an over-the-top treat, try a version which smothers the icy pile with almond pudding, chewy melon jelly, and mochi, crowned with a small scoop of vanilla ice cream. 

This eye-catching waterfront restaurant with a menu that hopscotches around South America is a popular choice for its happy hour, featuring snacks like brisket empanadas or spicy tuna tiradito, as well as grilled mains like Nikkei-style kalbi beef short ribs and Peruvian roasted chicken with sweet potatoes and salsa criolla. Lechon also has a full vegetarian menu, a rarity for this generally meat-centric cuisine.

Wilf's Restaurant & Jazz Bar at Union Station

Wilf’s, at Union Station, is a jazz bar and restaurant that employs plenty of throwback flourishes. There aren’t many white tablecloth places left in Portland where diners can sit in crimson velvet wingback chairs and order old-school dishes like steak Diane and cherries jubilee prepared tableside over an open flame. For a more casual experience, try the lounge, where favorites like gooey cheese-topped French onion soup can be enjoyed with a glass of wine.

De Noche

De Noche, one of the myriad restaurant concepts launched by República & Co., serves modern Mexican fare in the former La Fondita space. Expect beautifully plated renditions of classics like nopales salad, twists like the strawberry aguachile, and an ever-changing mole of the day. Visitors can dine al fresco on a patio along the north park blocks or at a rustic wooden table in the brick-walled dining room.

Lan Su Chinese Garden Teahouse

With its serene atmosphere overlooking a courtyard, Lan Su Chinese Garden Tea House is an Old Town oasis. A ticket to the Chinese gardens is the price of entry and visitors can choose among herbal, oolong, and black teas (or even wine and sake) to accompany vegetarian light bites like dumplings, buns, and braised tofu, as well as mooncakes and almond cookies. It’s the ideal finish to an afternoon watching the garden’s koi.

John's Café

While great, Fuller’s isn’t the only old-school diner in this Northwest quadrant. John’s Cafe has been there all along with its burgundy vinyl booths and padded counter stools, slinging economical breakfast specials and turning out BLTs and salisbury steak for lunch. The corner restaurant stops serving pancakes at 11 a.m., so diners whose tastes lean more sweet than savory should keep that in mind.

Republic Cafe and Ming Lounge

Republic Cafe, which celebrated its 100th birthday in 2022, is one of the few operational vestiges of Portland’s Chinatown, decked out in murals and red-and-gold regalia. And there’s no better place to soak up some nostalgia and dig into Chinese American classics like chop suey and almond chicken than in a brown vinyl banquette (ignore the duct tape) bathed in red lights. Bonus: It’s open until midnight every day of the week, and often hosts cool under-the-radar concerts and DJs.

Kasbah Moroccan Cafe

This tile-clad Moroccan cafe serves b’stilla, a traditional powder sugar-dusted pastry filled with chicken, as well as numerous tagines and Merguez lamb sausage made onsite. The sausage can be enjoyed in sandwich form, though the tagine with couscous and green olives is a lovely expression of the halal meat. There’s no going wrong by starting a meal with one of the earthy dips, accompanied by fluffy flatbread.

Old Town Pizza & Brewing

Portland has become a pizza town over the years, but before locals were topping pies with burrata or nduja, Old Town Pizza was there with its house special pie — pepperoni, salami, Italian sausage mushroom, black olive, bell pepper. Nearly 50 years old, the two-story restaurant in a historic building has since expanded across the river and added a taproom, so diners can try a limited edition brew like a cucumber lager along with their barbecue chicken pizza. 

Goodies Snack Shop

This new snack bar and market is, in many ways, a return to the building’s origins: Goodies Snack Shop sits in the space once home to Teikoku Co., a market in the heart of Portland’s Nihonmachi (Japantown). These days, it’s a fun spot to stock up on snacks, candies, and noodles ahead of a riverside picnic.

Green chairs line up at tables at Goodies, alongside snack shelves.
Goodies Snack Shop.
Dina Avila/Eater Portland

Barnes and Morgan

This minimalist tea shop isn’t just stylish in its aesthetics — hiding in the back, owner Amir Morgan shows off his bespoke jumpsuits and vests in a showroom and studio, which customers peruse while he brews cups of jasmine and oolong in the front. If a tray of baklava is sitting by the counter, it’s best to order a slice with your tea.

A man pours tea into a glass cup at Barnes and Morgan in Portland, Oregon.
Barnes and Morgan.
Carla J. Peña/Eater Portland

Deadstock Coffee Roasters

Local coffee shops have shaken off the outdated rigid stereotypes, which is exemplified in sneaker-themed Deadstock Coffee. The small storefront that also sells fun merch serves house roasts with names like Dark Jawn and Slow Jamz. Customers can order photo-worthy lattes adorned with a matcha powder Nike hightop or grab-and-go offerings like the LeBronald Palmer, a blend of coffee, lemonade, and sweet tea.

Sushi Ichiban

Portland has a surprising number of kaiten a.k.a. conveyor belt sushi options, though Sushi Ichiban has the distinction of sending plates to diners on a miniature train that travels on a circular track around the counter. From vegan avocado and shiitake rolls to more elaborate spider rolls, most offerings top out at $5, so it’s not too costly to try things on a whim.

Lovely Rita

Lovely Rita, the ground floor restaurant in the Hoxton, is worth a stop for a morning latte or an after-work martini, even if not staying at the hotel. Currently, the rambling space, lit by big picture windows, serves as a cafe during the day (laptops welcome) then turns more bar-like during the evening, with live music and small bites like charcuterie plates and panini. The hotel is also home to a sneaky speakeasy-like bar and a rooftop taqueria.

Kaizen Sushi pdx

Helmed by chef and owner Job Martinez, who perfected his craft at notable sushi bars around the city, Kaizen is a notch above most neighborhood options. Take a seat inside the airy bilevel space — or at the counter — and try some of the traditional nigiri made from fish flown from Japan or sample one of the more creative rolls with names like Keep Portland Weird. Don’t miss one of dishes that bear the chef’s personal stamp, like the mixed seafood ceviche that uses heirloom tomatoes and jalapeño ponzu, garnished with cilantro.

Afuri

Popular ramen chain Afuri is the place for a bowl of yuzu shio ramen, but don’t miss out on the dumplings and small plates like the soft shell crab bun, crisp karaage, and seasonal specials like a watermelon salad seasoned with shichimi pepper and nori. Pair the Japanese food with one of nuanced sakes from an extensive list — or even try a flight of two-ounce pours.

Meet Fresh Portland

This Taiwanese import specializes in soupy desserts — served hot or cold — featuring purple rice, red beans, taro balls, and grass jelly. However, the real crowd pleaser might be the bao bing a.k.a. Taiwanese shaved ice. For an over-the-top treat, try a version which smothers the icy pile with almond pudding, chewy melon jelly, and mochi, crowned with a small scoop of vanilla ice cream. 

Related Maps

Lechon

This eye-catching waterfront restaurant with a menu that hopscotches around South America is a popular choice for its happy hour, featuring snacks like brisket empanadas or spicy tuna tiradito, as well as grilled mains like Nikkei-style kalbi beef short ribs and Peruvian roasted chicken with sweet potatoes and salsa criolla. Lechon also has a full vegetarian menu, a rarity for this generally meat-centric cuisine.

Related Maps