Portlanders wandering north across the Columbia often gravitate to the bit of Vancouver that most resembles Portland — the downtown area west of I-5. But pound for pound, some of the best food in the city can be found in the strip malls of east Vancouver. Behind NYC Pizzeria’s unassuming storefront is a brightly lit, casual restaurant, where TVs play college football or the Blazers. Cheese is the name of the game (a pepperoni slice will feature mozzarella beneath and on top of the meat), but slice specials can also include pies topped with ingredients like ginger, cilantro, paneer, and Tandoori chicken.

It may technically be a peninsula, but many residents find St. Johns an island difficult to leave. A microcosm of Portland, St. Johns has (nearly) one of everything, and a charming neighborhood pizza spot is no exception. Inhabiting a retired gas station — complete with inactive, 1930s-era pumps — Signal Station serves generously sized slices on airy crusts from a daily list of five options: typically cheese and pepperoni, along with veggie and meat specials.

The style at this Cully neighborhood pizzeria blurs New Haven and New York, with subtly sweet sauce and thin crust that provides ample chew, crisp, and char. Slices are available to-go or enjoyed in the spacious backyard patio — including several covered tables. Slice options include cheese, pepperoni, and a daily special, plus combination meals that include salads or sodas.

Pizza Thief and its sister bar — umbilically connected via a narrow portal — Bandit Bar may be named for the actual pizza purloining owners Darby Aldaco and Tony Pasquale did as kids, but pizza this good is worth paying for. The sourdough note in the crust isn’t too loud, underlying the harmony of mostly locally sourced toppings with a subtle tartness. The cheese and the dough are both a bit thicker than other New York-style options in town, but far from the mega-cheese approach of your standard pizza chain. The slice counter typically offers a wide selection of their house pies, including both vegan and gluten-free options. The décor is ultra-modern Northwest, befitting this neighborhood that touches both heavy industry and verdant Forest Park.

Escape from New York has been slinging slices for longer than many Portlanders have been alive. In an ever-changing city, EFNY’s reliable, foldable New York-style pizza is as familiar and steady as ever. The cheese vs. sauce needle here is tipped heavily towards the mozzarella end of the scale, making an Escape From New York a sound end-of-night counter-balance to that last drink you had at the bar. Unlike newer spots that strain to achieve the patina of an old-school pizza parlor, EFNY is the real deal, complete with service that is more New York-brusque than Portland-passive. Eat inside along a narrow counter or two small outdoor tables.

It wouldn’t feel right to ignore Portland’s metalhead-friendly, by-the-slice destination; way back in 2011, it served some of the wildest slices in town, including some strong vegan pies. Any day of the week, diners can stroll up to order slices like the garlicky pepperoni-jalapeño number known as Napalm Breath, or the Briehemoth layered with apple slices, brie dollops, and caramelized onion. There are Sizzle Pie locations across town, and it also supplies the Hollywood Theatre with slices from a window inside the lobby.

Baby Doll changed ownership in 2021, but the well-balanced New York style pizza remains relatively close to the original. Thin, crispy crust is the canvas for a light brushing of sauce and restrained application of cheese and other toppings. This is comfort food pizza intended to accompany the deep tap list of Baby Doll’s adjoining bar. Chessboard floor tile, pinball machines, black leather booths, and low-hung lighting gives the dining room David Lynch meets Tim Burton vibes.

Drunkenly stumbling into Straight From New York for a slice of cheese has been a Portland tradition since the ’80s, still going strong on both sides of the river. These are unfussy pies, pale golden crusts supporting old-school pepperoni or thin slivers of green pepper; the shop often offers beer and slice specials throughout the day. The classic glass case always houses a chef’s special or two, whether it’s a standard like Hawaiian or something off-the-wall topped with, say, strawberries.

Amid new development in Lents, it seems appropriate this addition to the neighborhood would be founded by prolific developers Chad and Dana Rennaker. The auto-themed Humdinger connects to next-door bar Shifters via an internal passageway, and the slices well-suited to accompany a hoppy pint or dry Malbec. Large slices feature chewy crust, sweet and slightly peppery sauce, and a bounty of cheese and toppings. The car concept may feel a bit too “theme park” for some, but the inhabited vibes are decidedly casual and friendly.

It may not be always sunny in Sellwood, but solid pizza is now a guarantee. A spin-off of neighboring a Cena Ristorante, Sunny’s Pizza dishes up big slices loaded with cheese. Options include cheese, pepperoni, and at least one gluten free pie; eclectic furniture and design suits this casual neighborhood spot, as does the full bar.

Portland’s pizza renaissance spilled over to Beaverton in 2021 with the opening of Society Pie. Corporate drop-outs Josh and Stacey Kearney bring an emphasis on simple, classically constructed pies and community ties — they support a number of neighborhood charitable initiatives and their website offers a path to a free meal for those in tough economic straits. The flavorful crust has an airy chew, a foundation for tastefully balanced mozzarella, slightly herbaceous sauce, and toppings. Slice options include cheese, pepperoni, veggie (not vegan), Hawaiian, and supreme. The brightly lit dining area is a bit spare with only a few tables, but is serviceable for a quick slice.