Despite what some obnoxious pizza snobs may say, square pizzas can be found throughout Italy, from pizza al taglio sold by weight in Rome to tomato-and-anchovy-topped sfincione in Sicily. Italian immigrants brought recipes for these angular pies as they came to the Unites States, creating versions of old classics with the materials they found in their new hometowns. Pizzerias in New York started selling slabs of Sicilian, and Italian-Americans in Detroit began baking square pies in distinct blue-steel pans, topped with Wisconsin brick cheese. Here in Portland, we have our own versions of these styles of pies, from the nonna or grandma pies at Baby Doll and Scottie’s Pizza Parlor, to the cheesy-crusted, bombastic pies at Ranch, to the various bars and breweries selling their takes on Detroit-style pizza.
Local pizzaioli have tried to meet the high demand for these specialty pizzas, but their ability to get square pies into the hands of hungry customers is limited by the long process of proofing and baking, the amount of steel pans they own, and oven space. Ex Novo Brewing built a restaurant in Beaverton equipped with pizza ovens to increase output and make bigger pies. Other spots are still working on logistics, or are making tough choices in response to the ongoing pandemic: Pizza Doughnais is closed, but will reopen as a new pizzeria under the same ownership; it’s uncertain whether square pies will be part of the new pizza menu.
This mismatch between supply and demand means that those who still sell their popular deep dish pies often sell out, especially on weekends. All the pizzas eaten for this map were available when ordered on a Wednesday or Thursday at the time the restaurant opened; for weekends or special occasions, it helps to order ahead. Currently, most of these spots are takeout only, so pros know to plan on traveling with the pizza or finding a nearby place to park and eat. This map is not ranked; rather, it’s organized geographically.
A number of Portland restaurants have resumed onsite service. The level of service offered is indicated on each map point. However, this should not be taken as endorsement for dining in, as there are still safety concerns. For updated information on coronavirus cases in your area, please visit the Oregon Health Authority’s COVID update page. Studies indicate that there is a lower exposure risk when outdoors, but the level of risk involved with patio dining is contingent on restaurants following strict social distancing and other safety guidelinesRead More